I have been pretty busy as of late....So this could be quite long. I promise it will be a good ride. So read on and dream my dreams, walk in my footsteps, climb up and down with me...
I'll start with Monday March, 10th. I hired Marc Chauvin to guide me up an ice climb on
Further down Odell's, Marc and I actually had to step down off of an 18 to 24 inch crown line from a recent avalanche that probably was pretty big considering the size of the crack which actually went from one side of the gully to the other. That was frightening, but fun in some twisted way. We made our way just to the top of the first ice section of Odell's and continued our traverse/ descent over to South Gully. A few quick maneuvers through some small trees and a quick belay from Marc down a steep but turning gradually lower angle snow slope and we were in South. We completed the loop, finding our only pocket of wind slab snow just at the base of South Gully. We took the time to dig a shallow snow pit to check the sheer plane of the snow. It was pretty firm and took some effort to slab away. We were completely in safe terrain and it was an interesting test of the snow stability. We made our way down the mountain very quickly. It was an amazing honor to climb with Marc and I am thankful for him showing me Odell's gully from a different perspective. I am plotting my next trip with him sometime in the near future.
Before the movie, we also went to IKEA south of the city. I had never been, so Steph gave me the full tour. We had fun and even ate some Swedish meatballs! Well, I ate some anyway....YUM!Saturday March 15th, I met my longtime friend Erik in
Me leading the Monkey
We started out by climbing up lower snow section of Hitchcock gully and traversing right towards a climb I did earlier in the year with my friends Todd and Liz, called Left Hand Monkey Wrench. This is a great climb and it was in big and blue! The ice was in classic soft condition but, good for placing screws. Erik ripped right up it, taking out my protection as if he'd climbed just the day before!
"Just like riding a bike" he said....
Erik and I plotting our next move, to take out the rope and finish with a little more safety in the system!
After the first two climbs, I suggested we go over and finish up a climb called The Cleft. This climb is relatively easy but, awesome in that it climbs blue ice bulges and snow up a huge slot in the upper cliff band of
All in all, a great day of climbing with an old friend!